Published Story
The "Informal" Tour-guide
I show the capulana [traditional fabric for clothing], the mussiro, and the local dances. There is a dance that is called Tufo, only for women. When they dance it they put on the mussiro.
It is the golden hour. The sun is slowly descending into the Indian Ocean. Sellers at the stands are starting to put away their materials, preparing everything for tomorrow. We are at the pier, in Stone Town, watching the sun, the colour palette of the sky, and the people. I'm approached by Capitãozito, a nickname translating to "little captain", asking if I would like to go on a tour with him. He didn't share what was his real name.
Capitãozito
Informal tour guide, 21 years old
Excerpted · August 2017
Interviewer: You know what is UNESCO and its role regarding the Island of Mozambique? The WHS classification…?
Capitãozito: I know what UNESCO is. The rest not really.
What do you think about the impact of UNESCO on the Island?
C.: It is a company that trains tourist guides. Some historical monuments are here. They trained some guides that now have UNESCO badges. Like they are official guides.
Do you think the Island of Mozambique has changed over time?
C.: Yes. The houses were abandoned and now they are restored. The houses were bought, and when they do, they make people restore them. People now see the roads cleaned.
What do you think about the coming of foreigners to the Island? Did the World Heritage Site nomination help boost tourism or the coming of foreign investigators and investors..?
C.: Some people don’t like it, but some do.
Are there a lot of guides like you?
C.: Yes. We find people on the streets and ask if they want a tour of the Island. We take the tourists on boat tours to the other islands. I’m not officially connected to anything, no company.
Do you feel connected to some monument on the Island of Mozambique?
C.: The fortress doesn’t have anything in there. It only has history and that means a lot to me. The Island is divided into two parts, the macuti part, and the stone part, the city of Stone. The stones used to make the fortress came from the macuti part. The Portuguese constructed it. To make their castle.
Overall, do people care about the conservation of the Island as a historical place?
C.: Some people don’t care, most of them. Only a few care about that.
What do you consider to be your heritage?
C.: The fortress, its history. I feel connected to traditional clothes also.
As a guide, do you show the immaterial side of heritage to the tourists?
C.: Yes, I do. I show the capulana [traditional fabric for clothing], the mussiro, and the local dances. There is a dance that is called Tufo, only for women. When they dance it they put on the mussiro [sort of white “make-up” that covers the all face].
Did you visit any museums? If so, what is your opinion about them?
C.: Yes, they are nice. They have old things and beads. There is the navy museum and the religious art museum. I’m happy with what exists.
What do you think of the current state of the Fortress of San Sebastian?
C.: There used to be things there that were taken to the museum. I like to see it like this, empty. When a person goes there it must notice that it is a fortress, a military force. One should keep the fortress intact. They shouldn’t have things to the fortress. The museum, for example, closes at 16h30. If tourist appears after that, they stay outside, because it is already closed. But in the fortress, they can come in after that. I like that people can enter the fortress at all times.